A Philly Connection and NYC

I was on my way to NYC for the first time in my life.  I would be staying with an old high school buddy, Albert A.  I have always talked about going to visit Albert, but never got around to it.  This time, I was definitely going.

Leaving DC, I got a solid taste of rush hour traffic on I-95N.  I knew I was gonna get caught in it, but on a trip like this, you just suck it up and endure it.  I have been in big city traffic before, so I wasn’t that scared, but damn….it was brutal.  I have never been in rush hour traffic where I just sat in one place and didn’t move for so long.  I feel like I would sit for 5min on a regular interval. 

On the way to NYC, I stopped in Philadelphia to see my cousin-in-law Sarah V.  She commented on one of my blog posts that I should stop by if in the area, so we decided to meet up for lunch.  Philadelphia was conveniently located on my route between DC and NYC, so it was a perfect fit.

On the way to Philly, I was treated to some decent views of the city.  I crossed over this multi-level bridge.

Then I got a solid view of Downtown. 

My cousin Sarah works at Moore College which is a liberal arts and design school.  I was going to meet her on her lunch break, and I wasn’t planning on doing any sightseeing after that.  Fortunately, Moore College is really close to some of the notable Philadelphia sights, so on my brief drive, I got to see some cool stuff.  Im not gonna lie, my conception of what Philadelphia looks like is based mostly off of the intro to the TV show “Always Sunny In Philadelphia,” and I got to see a lot of the things in the intro!

This fountain!

City Hall (I think)!

I picked up Sarah, and after struggling to find street parking, we walked over to a pub called the Elephant and Castle for lunch.  We scarfed a delicious serving of humus and had great conversation.  I have to say, sometimes when you meet up with a person you haven’t seen in a while, it can be a little awkward at first, but we were clicking on all cylinders.  Maybe we both were tweaking on our late morning coffee, but I had a great time chatting with her.  We talked about the complexities of grad school, the challenges of working with art and design students on their writing skills, and various other digressions.  Thanks for a great lunch Sarah!

Now it was time to drive to NYC.  My route took me on the famous New Jersey Turnpike, and I screwed up at my first toll booth.  I thought I was supposed to stop and grab some sort of ticket, but there were signs everywhere that said “DO NOT STOP.”  Anyways, it was confusing, and I cruised through the toll booth without a ticket.  I felt like I did something wrong.  One crazy thing about the NJ Turnpike is that there aren’t regular exits on the highway like we have in Texas.  Actually, there are “service plazas” every 10miles or so.  These service plaza’s allow you to exit the highway, but you cant actually go onto side roads.  The plaza is pretty much a rest stop with a gas station, restaurants, and convenience stores.   The actual highway exits that go onto different roads are few and far between.  Anyways, I got off at the first service plaza and inquired to a few gas stations workers on a smoke break whether I was supposed to get a ticket.  They said I was supposed to stop, but since I got on the Turnpike at the very start, I was going to pay for the full toll anyways, which was the penalty for not having a ticket.  Cool.

I noticed this crazy thing along the turnpike.  It is a cell tower with “foliage-like” camouflage.  The thing is, these cell towers are much taller than the trees, and they don’t really disguise them at all.  It is probably some sort of weird state law.

One of the biggest challenges going to a big city like New York City on a road trip is finding a place to keep my car.  I devised this keen solution to this problem.  I would park my car in the $10/day offsite parking for Westchester County Airport (a smaller airport north of the city near White Plains).  I would take the commuter train from White Plains into the city.

As I exited the NJ Turnpike, I had my window down and was slowly rolling up to the toll booth.  As I approached, I could hear the attendant making noise.  It was this older guy signing very loudly in some crazy foreign tongue.  He did not have a good singing voice.  He took my money and gave me a head nod, not once stopping his singning.  Welcome to the city I guess…I chuckled.

My GPS had me crossing over the George Washington Bridge onto Manhattan before heading north towards White Plains.  Traffic was really really cut throat.  Again, I have been in traffic before, even in big cities, but what made this traffic scary were the number of tractor trailers and their aggressiveness.  I mean, you would think these people were fighting for their lives.  They were slinging their trailers everywhere.   

At several points, the number of lanes reduced and other highways converged, making for a sticky situation.  I have to give the Google Navigation app on my phone credit.  Despite these very difficult navigating conditions, I was able to successfully navigate through this mess.  It was pretty tricky when after you exit, the road immediately forks into another fork into another fork.  And the signs marking the exits list so many different roads, and many of the roads have multiple designations.  I have been using the Google Navigation my whole trip, but it really shined on this occasion.  It also occurred to me, that I would no way be able to navigate this situation on my own; I would need a co-pilot.  And even if I had a co-pilot, the directions were incredibly confusing, and mistakes would be likely.  

So I drive up to White Plains, park my car, take a cab to the train station, and board my train for Grand Central Station.  Its funny how you have to get into hardcore city mode the first day in a big city like this.   The rules: don’t look too much at people; walk fast; stick to the right of the escalator if you don’t want to walk; and don’t stop to talk to any of the thousands of people trying to sell you something or recruit you for a cause….just keep moving. 

I got off my train in Grand Central Station.  It looks just like the pictures.  I walked up to the second floor balcony and spent about 30min just watching people walk around.  There were business people meeting in the station after work, people rushing to their next train, tourists, and minor celebrities (apparently I was standing next to some kid that was on Americas Got Talent or something like that….it looked like he was just hanging out trying to get recognized).  Along with the hoardes of tourists, I took pictures as well.

Since I had time to burn before my buddy got off work, I walked around the station a bit.  On the second floor in the main part of the station, they have an Apple store.  I was actually somewhat confused by this.  I kind of stumbled upon it as I walked around, and I couldn’t discern whether people were actually buying Apple products or if they were just bumming internet to check email and other crap.  I still have no idea.  Anyways, I checked out the food court in the station which seemed really nice.  They even have a really nice bar near one of the exits where people with way more money than me were drinking expensive drinks and talking about business. 

As I exited, my very first impression of the city was of the towering nature of the buildings.  Every building is way huge, and you travel in the small crevasse in between these monoliths.  It really feels like being in an urban canyon. 

A great view of Chrysler Tower with Grand Central Station in the foreground.

I had a couple hours before Albert got off work.  He suggested that I check out Bryant Park and Times Square. Bryant Park is an outdoor park directly adjacent to the New York Public library.  The library was closed, but I assumed it was very similar to the Boston Public Library….a place for the homeless to check their email.   The library is recognizable from the movie Ghostbusters.

Bryant Park is a really cool area.  There was a large plot of grass covered in tables for people to sit.  Very bright lights illuminate the area so that it can be used at night.  There were lots of people taking their dogs out for a walk while meeting a friend for a drink.  There was also a group of carneys out there practicing their juggling and rave moves.  Bryant Park seems like a really cool date spot or a place to meet with friends.  The towering buildings that surround the park provide a stunning backdrop.

Next I walked over to Times Square.  It is sort of a weird place.  A giant parade of tourists moves through the area; everyone taking pictures and video while staring upwards.  I guess there are people that actually work there, but it is not apparent.  The whole area seems to function entirely as a tourist destination.  

There are tons of weird things happening there.  People taking wedding pictures.  People dressed as super heroes.  What is up with those people?  The super heroes  didn’t appear to be soliciting money for pictures, although a lot of tourists were taking pictures them.  I mean for real, whose hobby is it to go out dressed as a super hero and just hang out while people take pictures with you?  To each their own I guess.  Kinda weird when you think about it though.  

Times Square is the definition of stiumulus overload.  There are screens everywhere and all of them are playing video or have some animation on them.  Everything is moving and flashing.  Screens cover absolutely everything.  I even noticed a wavy screen contoured to the side of a building.  You can see where there are cutouts in the screen for windows.  These advertisements cannot be cheap, and I don’t understand how there can be a return on investment with such an expensive ad in a completely saturated environment.  Most people are just having seizures. I am not sure how anyone can really focus in on one particular ad and remember its message or product.  

After spending some time in Times Square, my friend Albert was finished for work.  We met up at a city corner and headed for some dinner.  We went to dinner at this taco joint.  As a Texan, I was a little doubtful from the start, but it was actually pretty good.  You could tell that they imported a lot of ingredients and beers to make the experience authentic.  Of course it wasn’t cheap, but it was very tasty.  The food was prepared inside a VW bus that had been gutted and was situated in the middle of the restaurant.  After dinner we went to grab a beer at a local watering hole.  We discussed Dallas sports, NYC, and future life plans.   At some point we headed back to Alberts place to settle for the night.  He lives in SoHo, and it was cool to see the area he lived in.  There were an abundance of people at eating, drinking, and partying on a Tuesday night.  It was a pretty hip area.  Albert’s apartment was actually really nice.  When I think of NY apartments, I think about dimly lit one bedroom apartment where there is water dripping from the ceiling into a pot and the bed folds into the wall.  His place has a decent living room and a compact yet nicely furnished kitchen. 

The next morning, I woke up and rode the subway with Albert to work.  He went into his office, and I went sight seeing.  Obviously, peoples’ job schedules vary, but it seems that a lot of people in NY don’t go into work until 9 or 10am (which would explain the party people on a Tues night).  Although, according to Albert, people work later as a consequence. 

The UN was having its general assembly that week, so there was lots of craziness happening in the city.  A non stop barrage of motorcades plowed their way through the already clogged city streets.  Delegations and the accompanying security took up parking for countless blocks.  I actually spent an hour first thing that morning just taking in the sight.  Every local, state, and federal police force and security contractor was in town that weekend.  It was like a convention for them.  They had some pretty crazy hardware out there.  Bulletproof cars, mobile command sites, rapid response teams.  It was cool to look at.

At some point, I got as close to the UN as I could.  Obviously, there was a pretty spacious secure perimeter around the building.  Ive seen the movie North by Northwest, so I figured I already knew what the place looked like, and I wasn’t too sad I couldn’t get closer.

After a significant walk towards the UN, I stumbled upon a church and decided to go to daily mass.  Churches are a little different in the middle of a city like New York.  They don’t have their own building, but instead occupy space within an existing building.  A modest façade marks the entrance.  During lunch they have three mass times spaced 30minutes apart.  Mass was quick.  Makes sense for NYC I guess.  Communion was not orderly.  People didn’t wait their turn, but instead, it was a mad rush to the front.  And as the priest walked out at the end, people walked in for the next service.  Interesting. 

After Mass, I booked it up towards Rockefeller Center.  I walked around 30 Rock and checked out the golden statue out front.  I went into the NBC store, and they had lots of cool gear (all too expensive for my tastes).  It was cool to see, and interestingly there are shops and restaurants below street level.  I walked around the block and ogled at the towering buildings.

Next I headed down Fifth Avenue, which is obviously famous for many designers having flagship stores on that street.  I stopped in the Nike store.  They had a lot of gear that I hadn’t seen anywhere else, and the store was several stories tall. When you walk in, there are dudes at the front whose sole purpose (I assume) is to throw the football back and forth.  I saw the Cartier store, but I assumed outright that I was not allowed in that store.  However, a couple stores down, I passed the Tiffany store, and I saw regular people (not rappers or movie stars) walking in, so I figured what the heck.  As I walked in, an attendant at the front asked what I was interested in, and I told him bridal collections.  He said it was on the second floor, and he escorted me into an elevator where a properly dressed woman pushed the “2” button for me.  The diamonds were nuts.  Every ring had a 2carat or bigger diamond.  It was like looking at Lisa Frank jewelry that little girls wear, except the diamonds on these were real.  Nobody at the store asked if I needed help or even paid any attention to me, but I didn’t mind at all. I would be too nervous to actually touch the merchandise, and I am sure they are good at picking out the serious customers (not me). 

A little bit further down 5^th Ave, I passed the famous Apple store.  I walked down the stairs to the below ground store just to take a peak.  It was crazy busy in there, so I didn’t care to mull around.  Still though, it’s a pretty cool looking structure. 

I grabbed a cheap cheap hotdog (only $1.50; cant get one for that cheap in texas) hung out in front of the plaza hotel (which was under construction) and talked to Kayley on the phone.  After grabbing grub, I headed out towards Central Park.

Now, I had this idea that Central Park was NYC version of the Boston Commons.  False.  Central Park is HUGE.  Regardless, I made my way into the park.  I feel like I had already seen most of the park since so many movies have a scene here.  I saw the famous pond.  There were people paddling a row boat, and even some people laid out on the green areas.  Again, the towering buildings provide a stunning backdrop to the spacious green areas.

Next, I made it to the Sheep Meadow.  This is a massive field with plush green grass.  Judging from my facebook friends posts over the years, this is a popular destination during the warmer months to lay out and drink some beverages.  

I checked out The Mall of Central Park.  I walked around the big fountain and enjoyed the mosaic design on the pedestrian underpass.  Lots of people relaxing and reading on park benches.  Whenever I see someone doing that, it makes me jealous.  I always think “Why didn’t I think to bring a book and read here?”

I made my way through the Ramble, which is a large densely wooded area with winding trails.  If you want to get murdered, I bet this is a good place to go at night.  Anyways, it was pretty neat. 

Eventually I made it all the way up to the Reservoir (although this is only half-way up Central Park; I attacked from the south and walked north).  I stopped to enjoy the view of the 1 mile wide reservoir that acts as a reflecting pool for the neighboring buildings.  There were lots of people running the trail around the water.  Even some high school PE classes were out there running. 

 

One interesting observation about people in NYC:  the average person dresses very fashionably.  I have never considered myself fashion-conscious, but I still don’t dress like a slob.  On a day where I am planning on walking around the city all day, I dress casual and comfortable…at least according to Texas standards.  While people-watching on my journey across the city, I noticed that even a seemingly average person dresses just like the mannequin in some department store.  I was dressed in jeans, a cotton V-neck, my black Under Armor Shell, and tennis shoes.  I looked like some sort of slob/hobo next to everyone else.  I also noticed that almost everyone wore a watch.  I feel like in Texas, it is not uncommon for people to rely on their phone for the time, but in NYC, the watch is an important accessory. 

After I made it half-way up Central Park, I figured I had seen enough.  I hopped on the subway to head downtown towards the 9/11 memorial.  For some reason, my train was delayed.  Man people get super pissed when that happens (I wasn’t happy either, but I guess I didn’t really have anywhere urgent to go).  I took a couple pictures while waiting.  

It is a weird process to get into the 9/11 memorial.   You can’t just walk up to the memorial.  You need to obtain free tickets from an office nearby.  Then, walk over to the memorial and pass through extensive security before they let you in.  It was really near to closing time, and I got some of the last tickets before they closed for the day.

It was really cool to see the progress being made on the new World Trade Center.  The tallest tower WTC-1 is also referred to as Freedom Tower.  The new buildings are adjacent to the old location of WTC buildings 1 and 2.  Obviously, the memorial sits on top of the old sites.

 

It was definitely an intense emotional experience to see the site of the WTC.  It felt like I was completing a pilgrimage of sorts.  All the predictable thoughts and emotions ran through my head.  Remembering that day.  Trying to wrap my head around the loss of life.  Thinking about all the fallout our nation endured from that day. 

While I was grad student I had a roommate named Lance who was an architecture student.  From hanging out with him, I was exposed to the considerations that go into the design process for buildings and structures.  It really made me appreciate this memorial.  At the location of the WTC foundations were giant pools sunken into the ground.  The water in the pool flowed into a deep chasm.  At no point can you see the bottom of the chasm that the water is flowing into.  This engendered a very dark feeling of loss and sadness.  Around the border of the pool are the names of those killed on that day.  I walked around each pool several times and reflected on the significance.  The mood was somber, and the environment was quiet and peaceful.  There were several docents around the grounds that I chatted with about the significance of various aspects of the memorial.  There are many other parts to the memorial other than the pools.  Once the entire World Trade Center Complex is rebuilt, the memorial is meant to be a park open to the public without a fences or a ticket. 

 

Apparently, white roses are placed atop names on the occasion of their birthday.  I found this one particularly sad.

After the seeing the memorial, I headed towards Wall Street.  It was already past the close of the market, and there were a lot of trader types walking around.  I passed this cool open air boxing gym near Wall Street.

I saw the Stock Exchange. 

I realized that I was obliged to stop by the bull statue.  Unfortunately, there was a crowd around the bull, and I didn’t care to deal with that, so I took a quick pic as I strolled by.

I saw this cool graffiti on the side of a truck. Jellyfish!

On the subway ride to meet up with Albert for dinner, I had another realization about New York:  people don’t fool with pleasantries.  I observed that strangers in Boston act somewhat congenial towards each other.  I attributed this to the abundance of young college students in the town.  In NYC, the mentality is more “screw you.”  On the subway, the car was filling up at one of the stops.  It didn’t look like this one particular gentlemen was going to be able to pack in, but instead he pointed to the smallest iota of a spot left on the train and yelled at this woman, “If you don’t take that spot, I will”, and then pushed his way through.  I saw similar instances throughout my day.  An older lady was talking on her cell phone while crossing the street.  She was dressed in an old lady dress suit with fashionable eyeglass frames and didn’t exude friendliness.  Since she was talking on the phone, she wasn’t paying attention and ended up in the middle of the street when traffic light turned green.  The cars honked at her, and she put down her phone and yelled “Ah shut up!” several times.  I am pretty sure the people in the cars couldn’t hear her, but I guess she felt it was necessary.  This was one of several examples where the stereotypical caricature of a New Yorker seemed to hold truth.

When I met up with Albert, we went to a local sports bar to watch the rangers play. They didn’t win, but we had a good time BS’ing over a couple of beers.  Later, we went to get hot dogs at this place called Crif Dog where we got a very delicious hot dog.  Interestingly, inside the hot dog joint was the entrance to a speakeasy.   To get into this bar that is on the other side of the wall, you enter a phone booth and pick up the receiver. You state your name, and if you have reservations, a secret door opens in the phone booth and you get in.  It was a trip to see people dressed for clubbing pouring into this phone booth in a hot dog joint.  After the food and beer, we headed home to get some rest (only after catching a few laughs on YouTube).

I think I kind of understated this in the blog, but I had a really great time visiting Albert.  He has been one of my best friends since middle school, and I only get to see him in Dallas during the holidays.  It was so great to see him in his natural habitat and spend a couple days in his shoes.  Thanks for everything Albert!  I had an awesome time.

My camera has the particular mode called "Daily Digest."  In this mode, the camera shoots a 2sec video for every picture I take.  Most of the good pictures that I take end up on this blog; the not so spectacular pictures are culled out.  Anyways, if you care to see a short video montage of my day, I have attached these compilation daily digests for you to check out.





Next on the trip, off to Hoboken, NJ to see Brian Duke and Maine to see the Kemberlings!